At first sight at the "arrival pavilion" at Phulay Bay Krabi with its 20-foot aubergine walls, you ask, "Where do I check in?"
"You don't," is the surprising answer.
Treading across a stone pathway floating on a pool water, we arrive at the greeting pavilion. There is no concierge nor front desk, just an elegant women dressed in a white gown who welcomes us with two exquisitely delicate fruit cocktails. Startled, we begin to realize the true meaning of the world "special."
Deluxe Luxury Villas with Butler Service Phulay Bay – a Ritz Carlton Reserve
Boutique in size, 54 rooms, grand in design; five-star Phulay Bay, Krabi is a perfect retreat for honeymoon couples and for those, myself included, who need to getaway from the work stresses of city life.
After a brief introduction we are whisked to our reserve villa by our 24-hour personal butler. Sliding the 14-foot glass doors, we are amazed at the enormous bed and sumptious decor. A sensual mélange of Thai, Middle Eastern and Morrocan cultures, designed by Thai architect, Lek Bunnag.
Bathe in Luxury at Phulay Bay
There is so much love and passion expressed in the aesthetic detail of the reserve villa. A lotus-shaped marble bathtub surrounded by mirrors, intricate wooden flooring with tiny specs of mother of pearl, a beautiful carved writing desk and a perfectly appointed bathroom looking out onto a private courtyard with its own plunge pool.
Phulay Bay is keen to support local industry and to maintain a Thai identity. Shower gels, shampoos conditioners and other exotic ungents are at hand in ceramic pots made by the high-quality Thai brand Pampuri.
Outside amongst the trees, a rainforest shower awaits the early morning riser. Later you can listen to the crickets as you take a dip in the private pool.
From Here to Infinity
For guests who wish to venture out of the magic of the peaceful realm of their villas there is a magnificent infinity pool and a long beach stretching across the bay.
For those who wish to snorkel, there is also a complimentary excursion to Hung Island, a favourite beach just across the water. Boats leave twice daily from the resort. Better to go in the morning than in the afternoon if you want the beach as nature intended – pristine, powdery white sand with just a handful of early morning beachcombers.
Cocktail hour is at the Sunset Bar and with a little help from a Mai Tai or two we are Flashpacker Buddhists meditating in a mindless state.
Having a Stress Buster at the Espa Spa
In a cool, high-ceilinged room we lie side by side, each with our masseuse. Steel fingers for my husband who has a Thai Massage without oil.
"Very invigorating," he tells me.
I have an aromatherapy massage.
"Very rejuvenating," he tells me.
Romantic Dining at Phulay Bay
The Lae Lay restaurant is perched on a moonlit seashore perfect for romantic à deux dining. There's cool music and unobtrusive silver service with a Thai touch. Lanterns give an elegant glow to the terrace, but you need two table lights instead of one to have any hope of seeing what you're eating. In fact the whole restaurant is bathed in mysterious darkness -- good for incognito celebrities and clandestine affairs.
With the arrival of linguine pasta with sauteed Pukhet lobster and a creamy lobster broth we swap mouthfuls of the delicious starters.
To follow we have a grilled mixed seafood for two with garlic, olive oil and lemon dressing. Prawns, shrimps, scallops, lobster, seabass fillets and mussels in the shell unfortunately make uneasy sea bed fellows. The poor little white sea bass fillet is sadly drowned by the strong juices of the garlic and crustations. Good intention, bad invention.
However, the crème brûlées, coconut, chocolate and best of all lime are fabulous, and the pineapple, mango and coconut sorbets delectable and refreshing.
Restaurant Review – Phulay Bay's Sri Tang
It’s our last evening at Phulay Bay and the first night of the new menu at Sri Tang overseen by the executive chef, the youthful and dynamic Gaeten Biesuz.
The sate starter is exquisite. Dipping the delicate little skewers of juicy prawns into the comforting peanut sauce, I am happy.
For the second course my partner, who is in search of the perfect Thai chicken green curry, is excited. Intent on fire-eating, he asks the waitress to make the dish full strength.
I on the other hand, ask for the roasted duck breast with a fruity Thai red curry and tell the waitress to turn down the heat. Philip is delighted with his dish and loves the rice, black and white scooped out of a raffia cone. My duck is tender and the sauce remains fruity, without curry.
We share a terrific khong hwan (dessert), a superb version of a banana fritter. Crispy and dry on the outside and succulent sweetness on the inside.
The new menu is a triumph.
It's Valentines Day and we are sad to leave this unique and sensual Citadel of pleasure, the perfect lover's retreat.
For readers who would like more information check the Phulay Bay website.
Nina Saville - Nina Saville is a freelance lifestyle journalist, covering theatre reviews, restaurants, luxury hotels, spas and fragrances.
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