When Caroline Fotherby, the director of Indepth Tourism Marketing, invited me to go on a trip to Zimbabwe to cover the opening of the newly renovated A' Zambezi River Lodge in Victoria Falls, I must admit that I hesitated before I said yes. Concerns about health and safety were uppermost in my mind. However, knowing that I would be travelling with a woman who had grown up in the bush and that the Rainbow Tourism Group would be hosting us tipped the balance in favour of taking the trip.
Fond Memories of a Trip to Zimbabwe
Infact my first journey to Zimbabwe was in 1986 where my husband, director Philip Saville, filmed Mandela with the American star Danny Glover. I still have vivid memories of the sublimely romantic journey down the Zambezi river, sitting on my husband's lap with a monkey at our side.
Essential Planning for a Trip to Zimbabwe
- Pre-book your accommodation. Use a reputable company like the Rainbow Tourist Group who have good hotels and lodges throughout the country.
- Visit your GP for advice on which innoculations are needed. You will need to take malaria tablets in areas like Victoria Falls and Sikumi. Mallorin are the most advanced and though they are expensive, only have to be taken a couple of days before entering a malaria area and one week after leaving the location.
- Make sure that you take a comprehensive medical insurance with you.
- Bring a well stocked medical kit, sunblock and a good mosquito repellant.
- The best currency to take is the US dollar. Bring small denominations of $1 and $5 notes as no change is given. Pens and sweets are offered instead as there are no coins. So its dollars and sweets, not dollars and cents.
- If you are visiting Victoria Falls and National Parks take enough cash with you to cover entry charges.
For comprehensive travel advice to Zimbabwe, including visas and safety precautions, visit
the Foreign and Commonwealth Office Website.
Flying with Air Zimbabwe from London to Harare
So, how was our trip? We flew Business Class with Air Zimbabwe, the only airline that flies directly from London, Gatwick to Harare. Despite the lack of distractions (no films or audio entertainment), the silver service and large retro leather seats, mindful of the interior of a vintage jaguar car, was a refreshing change. Such a pleasure to eat with stainless steel knife and forks rather than the plastic cutlery that is obligatory on other airlines. For those who need distractions, why not take an ipod and a travel scrabble?
An Enchanting Rustic Lodge in Harare
On our arrival in Harare our first stay is two nights at the Harare Safari Lodge, about an hour from the airport. It's an enchanting place where zebras and monkeys roam freely on the lawn surrounded by exotic birds and flowers. The lodges are simple and rustic as befits this charming retreat and the friendly, efficient staff helpful and courteous.
The Opening of the A' Zambezi River Lodge in Victoria Falls
Back to Harare airport and we take a Cessna 414A, six seater light aircraft plane to Victoria Falls. I am nervous but it's an exhilarating experience. Winging low over the glistening sheets of cascading water in a small plane is very like flying as a bird. The pilot is terrific and even though the carrier is more sensitive to the buffeting wind, I feel quite safe. We six passengers are aware that we share a unique experience and the excitement is palpable. Seeing the Victoria Falls (or as the locals call it Mosi oa Tanya ,the smoke that thunders) from the air is breathtaking and the spray can be seen from miles away.
Arriving at the A' Zambezi River Lodge, Caroline and I are thrilled with the location. The only hotel that boasts a position on the river banks. The well appointed spacious open restaurant and pretty swimming pool with mischievous monkeys milling with the guests and playing on the lawn, are sighted perfectly for watching the boats glide along the wide stretch of glistening water.
The extensive renovations are impressive. The bedrooms are dominated by king-sized beds beautifully draped in mosquito nets. All rooms have modern amenities with TV, shower and mini-bar. The majority of the rooms have a terrace facing the river, while the rest face the National Park and the gardens. The hotel has been given a 4 star accreditation but aims for 5 star service. It is clear from the speeches at the opening ceremony that all involved with this very pleasant hotel are committed to making the A' Zambezi River Lodge the jewel of Victoria Falls.
After lunch the sunset cruise down the river sweeps me back to 1986; watching the orange orb spread across the sky, casting a glowing blanket across the water, finally sinking down into the horizon lost in the river's dark cloak.
Party time and our hosts have arranged a bountiful buffet of lamb, beef, crocodile, ostrich , salads and elegantly presented desserts; trifle, mousses, chocolate terrines and fruit salad.
Next morning and here at last we stand before the mighty majesty of Victoria Falls; measuring 1690 metres wide and averaging 92 metres high. It's a full on experience with the huge rumbling sheets of water gushing and rumbling from the ravines sending up an enormous spray drenching all the tourists. Make sure you have waterproof cameras and suitable clothing that dries quickly.
Safari and Sunrise Cruise in Matetsi
The Matetsi Water Lodge, bordering the Zambezi River, 40 kilometres from Victoria Falls is world renowned as one of the most unforgettable in Africa. A safari with a sighting of a Hyena, a rare honey badger and a baboon, is a thrilling initiation for this first-timer.
Dining beneath the stars, sleeping in a luxurious lodge in the heart of the bush, cruising down the river fringed with umber trees sighting kingfishers, doves and impala, I am fast becoming bush wacky.
On the road to Hwange
We arrive at Sikumi Tree Lodge for lunch, a favourite Safari Lodge for animal lovers. Elephants, lions and giraffe are easily sighted as Sikumi boarders the Hwange National Park. Unfortunately, as we are only here for lunch we can only imagine what it must be like to sleep in a tree-house amongst the Mangwe and Acacia trees, take a game drive into Sikumi's private reserve or a Safari through one of Africa's finest game parks.
Matobo Hills Lodge
Zig zagging across the country we drive through the Matobo Hills where the legendary Cecil John Rhodes is buried. Passing through the rocky terrain the huge boulders; naturally sculpted, uncannily resemble mammoth mammals. It's a strange unearthly feeling, like the beginning of time. The lodge is on a hilltop with a swimming pool overlooking the vast terrain. We would have loved to have stayed here but we didn't have time.
On the road to Harare
It must be said that it's best to have a driver rather than renting a car. Andrew who chauffers us is continually being stopped by the police, sometimes for 'alleged' speeding or other times to check his licence.
We spend our last night in Harare at the Rainbow Towers, a cosmopolitan business hotel. Ironically, this is the hotel where I stayed with my husband and the crew in 1986 when it was the Sheraton hotel and it hasn't changed. We eat in the Japanese restaurant where the food is still good and sleep in comfortable accommodation ready for our early morning flight with Air Zimbabwe back to London.
Zimbabwe is not for those who are looking for a tidy holiday it is an unpredictable adventure that keeps the adrenalin pumping.
For readers who wish to book the Rainbow Tower Hotel and any of the lodges on our tour visit the
Rainbow Tourism Group website for more information.
Nina Saville - Nina Saville is a freelance lifestyle journalist, covering theatre reviews, restaurants, luxury hotels, spas and fragrances.
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